Following the establishment of your lawn, the focus now changes to Turf Management.  Contrary to popular belief, Turf Management does not need to be a daily chore, although the amount of work necessary depends on the quality of lawn desired.  For many only minor changes to existing Turf Management practices is all that is required to have a top quality lawn. 

Mowing is the most important task undertaken.  Make sure the mower blades are kept sharp at all times as blunt blades will damage the grass leaves and give a poor quality unsightly cut. The commonly adopted approach to grass cutting is that of scalping the lawn at periodic intervals, (i.e. setting the mower too low) this causes serious damage to turf grasses, thus negatively affecting the quality of the lawn.  This practice in conjunction with insufficient or inappropriate fertilising is one of the main reasons why lawns become sparse and dominated by weeds. A mower with blunt blades, especially a rotary type mower that cuts lawn by impact does considerable physical damage to the grass leaf which increases the grass plant's susceptibility to fungal and bacterial attack, increases moisture loss and gives the lawn a ragged white look. The best mowers to use on fine turf are well set reel mowers that slice cleanly through the grass leaf. Some grasses like Rye grass and Blue grass don't mind a rotary cut but the fine turf grasses like Bent (Browntop) and Fescue prefer a reel mower. Reel mowers give the finest cut and also roll the lawn smooth. 

Each turf grass species has its own optimal mowing height.  When mown regularly within the correct height range, a uniform dense turf cover is encouraged which limits the opportunity for weeds to establish.  Conversely, mowing too low or too high thins the turf, which allows bare areas to develop, in time these areas become colonised by weeds. As a rule of thumb for home lawns a height between 25- 40 mm gives the best results. In shady areas the lawn should be allowed to grow a little longer. Short lawns look neater however the grass plants have shorter roots systems, and suffer more environmental stress. This means that short lawns require very careful management, in particular watering, fertilising and mowing. Increasing the height of cut under stress conditions in particular during summer drought periods is a good management practice, which helps to maintain a healthy lawn.

The rule of thumb is to remove no more than 25% of the grass plant leaf at any one time.  Scalping (removing all or most of the leaf and the growing points, as well as parts of the stem) severely damages or kills the turf grass plants thus allowing weed seeds the opportunity to germinate and to establish themselves in the lawn, this bad management practice provides the opportunity for weeds to better compete.

Mowing height and frequency will depend on:

• The specie and variety of grass.  Creating Turf lawns are mostly of fine leaved Rye, Fescue and Bent grass (Browntop) or a monoculture of one species.

• Time of the year (for example, growth is more vigorous in Autumn/Spring than in Winter.

• Mowing height and frequency is dependant on the use the lawn is to be put to as well as personal preference.

If you wish to improve the appearance of the lawn for a special event, the best result will be achieved through an increase in mowing frequency not a lowering of height.  This may involve mowing up to three times per week.  This increase in frequency should begin at a minimum two weeks before the event.

Grass clippings can be left on the lawn after cutting, rather than removing them. The clippings decompose quickly, returning nutrients to the soil within weeks of mowing. The macro elements contained within the clippings comprise of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium at ratios of 5:2:3, respectively. Trace minerals are also present. The amount of nitrogen returned to the soil is as much as 88 kg/ha. Since nitrogen is the most expensive component of all lawn fertilisers, it pays to leave clippings.
Clippings also enhance the habitat for beneficial soil microorganisms. Earthworms ingest the clippings at night, further increasing the aeration and fertility of the soil, and maintaining a base that allows the lawn to feel springy when walked on. If the grass clippings are removed, worms will migrate to other more favourable habitats this will negatively influence soil structure and fertility.
Whether to return or remove the clippings or to return them to the soil is a personal choice. 

I personally believe that it is a good environmental practice to allow the grass clippings to remain onsite.

- The finish may not be as good
- Disease could under certain circumstances be enhanced
- On weedy lawns, weed seed is returned to the soil
- Where clippings are too thick, the turf can become smothered allowing weeds to establish.
- A possible Increase in thatch build-up. (Thatch is an accumulation of dead leaf and stems and shoot mass  encountered on well used lawns that experience large amounts of traffic, thatch reduces or prevents the penetration of water into the soil and a reduced gas exchange to the root zone). Thatch is seldom encountered on home lawns.

Mowing a little less frequently and raising the height of the cut during hot periods will reduce moisture loss.

The grass plants, which make lawns as with all living organisms, require nutrients to grow and to be healthy. Regular applications of fertiliser supply the required nutrients thus ensuring vigorous healthy grass plants and a top quality lawn. The nutrients essential for growth within the soil are nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), potassium (K) and iron (Fe). As a result of lawn culture certain essential plant nutrients are lost to the system, due to the removal of grass clippings, leaching of nutrients out of the root zone as well as losses of nitrogen to the atmosphere. Nitrogen-deficient grass is yellow-green, and lacks vigour. Nitrogen produces deep green leaves, rapidly growing leaves and shorter roots. Phosphorus facilitates metabolic functions plus energy storage and use. Potassium is used to create cell components, and it helps regulate respiration and transpiration. It helps the plant grow, withstand environmental stress and resist disease. Fertilisers should contain N, P and K. where possible select a balanced fertiliser that contains a mixture of slow and fast release N. This allows the lawn to green up with 2-3 days and stay green for several weeks. Iron can be used to control moss and some broad-leaved weeds. Iron darkens the grass, making it appear greener without stimulating growth.

Frequency of application
The general rule is that frequency should be such that turf density and colour is maintained.  Obviously the exact programme will be influenced by many factors, such as:

If your lawn begins to turn yellow then it may need fertiliser for chlorophyll synthesis to occur.
However, as with most things, over fertilizing may result in problems (thatch, disease) and ultimately an unhealthy and difficult to maintain lawn.
As a general rule two main applications of a good balanced lawn fertiliser with a higher potassium (K) content in the spring and autumn and if needs be one or two light applications of a balanced fertilizer with a higher nitrogen (N) content during the Summer months will produce a high quality lawn, however be careful too much nitrogen applied in summer may stimulate lush growth and encourage diseases.

Fertiliser Application
Apply fertiliser uniformly to avoid variations in growth and the risk of killing the grass due to toxic doses. Never apply fertilizer by hand always use a mechanical fertilizer spreader, i.e. a Scotts spreader, which can be purchased from most hardware and garden shops.  For even application when applying the fertiliser divide the fertiliser into two batches, and apply half in one direction and the rest at right angles to it. If using a spinning disc or broadcast spreader, set the machine to half the application rate and make adjacent runs at half the distance apart of the machine’s spread.

Watering
The use of irrigation is primarily to supplement deficiencies in rainfall, a good automatic system can be used to maintain the lawn in top condition throughout the summer.  However, care is required, as poor irrigation management in particular over watering can create problems.

Quantity
When irrigating, completely wet the root zone rather than just wetting the surface.  To avoid wastage, water should be applied at a rate so that ponding is avoided.  This may require several short bursts of watering rather than a single irrigation cycle.

Watering after establishment
Turf grass is a relatively low user of water. Enough water to completely wet the root zone must be applied at each watering. The frequency of watering will be determined by atmospheric conditions and the water retention properties of the soil. Irrigate before the first signs of wilting to avoid damage to the lawn. 

Weeds
Weeds are unwanted plants that will colonise your lawn if you engage in bad management practices, for instance, incorrect mowing height and frequency, insufficient or inappropriate watering, the lack of regular applications of or too much fertiliser, or to a much lesser extent insect or disease attack.
When the turf looses its density and uniformity an open sward develops that leaves it wide open to colonisation by unwanted weeds. Weeds in turf grasses can be very effectively controlled with the use of herbicides and by implementing a good turf management program.
To correctly apply herbicides is a skilled job that requires a good understanding of their application and mode of action as well as the correct identification of the particular weed to be eradicated.  There are many herbicides that can successfully remove weeds, both broad leaf and weed grasses from lawns, however if you are not experienced in turf care, consult an expert.